This Eagle, marked Alaska

This should fit most any smart phone however I designed it around my iphone 13 which is fairly large.It can accommodate horizontal and vertical charging so you can watch videos in horizontal mode.3D PRINTING SETTINGSPrinter:Bambu Labs X1CRafts: NoSupports: YesInfill: 10%Filament brand: Bambu LabsFilament material: PLA

Servo Mount Arm Horn Micro size x5 Used with Micro servo 9g.Series of 5 Plastic Servo Horns (Mounts, Arms) for Micro Servos. Dimensions are taken from existing models, and obtained using data sheets or calipers.Recommended 3D printingMaterial: Resin, Nylon, PLA, ABS

Turbo Compressor WheelThis is the rotor I used in my turbine model, now available for download. Just like that I have finished assembling the main turbine engine.Recommended 3D printingMaterial: Aluminum (AlSi10Mg)Process: SLMPost-processing: Sandblasting

Tire specifications:Outer diameter: 103 mmInner diameter: 74 mmProcess: 3D printingMaterial: Resin UTR Flex(DLP) or TPU(SLS)

This shape is the minimal expression of The Oloid. If we deconstruct both of them, we'll find the same structure, yet, THE ANTI OLOID is made with the fewest elements possible. Creating different paths even though their motion is the same. Process: 3D Printing SLAMaterial: Somos LedoSurface finish: Vacuum Plating

13 inch diameter and 4 inch pitch propellerPitch (inches) :4 Propeller Diameter (in.) 13 Hub Diameter 0.80 in. Hub Thickness 0.40 in. Shaft Diameter 1/4 in. 3D printing is recommended.Material: Resin, Nylon, Aluminum, Titanium

A foldable toolbox is a specially designed toolbox that can be unfolded for use and easily folded and stored when not in use. It typically consists of multiple foldable components that can be expanded and connected together to form a complete toolbox structure.Here are some common features and descriptions of a foldable toolbox:Foldable structure: A foldable toolbox has a collapsible design, allowing it to be unfolded for use and conveniently folded into a smaller size for storage and portability.Multi-layer or multi-compartment design: Foldable toolboxes often feature multiple layers or compartments, providing space for organizing and separating tools. These layers or compartments can be opened simultaneously when unfolded, making the tools easily accessible.Sturdy structure and materials: To ensure stability and durability, foldable toolboxes are typically constructed with a robust structure and durable materials such as metal or high-strength plastic.Handles and closure mechanisms: Foldable toolboxes are usually equipped with comfortable handles for easy carrying and transportation. Additionally, they may have reliable closure mechanisms to keep the toolbox securely closed when folded.Multi-functional design: Some foldable toolboxes may also have additional features such as built-in measuring tools, small storage compartments, or adjustable dividers to provide added utility and flexibility.Foldable toolboxes are useful in various settings such as households, vehicle maintenance, outdoor activities, and travel. Their portability and flexibility make them a favored solution for tool storage and transportation.When downloading and using STL files, it is crucial to adhere to the file's licensing agreement and terms of use. Some files may be protected by copyright and require permission from the creator for use. Additionally, ensure that you follow safety operating guidelines when using a 3D printer and make appropriate modifications and adjustments as needed.Remember to respect intellectual property rights, obtain necessary permissions when required, and prioritize safety precautions when engaging in 3D printing activities.

IntroductionJust a few years ago, building a product prototype was both expensive and complex, especially with plastic injection molding. Today, with the progress of industrial 3D printing, almost any product can be created and tested at a fraction of the cost. This shift has been driven by the ability to manufacture components using industrial-grade 3D printing.3D printing has redefined the way we conceive and personalize parts for electronic projects, making it possible to produce intricate components with accuracy and efficiency.In this article, we explore how 3D printing was pivotal in creating a coin collector specifically for vending machines. The enclosure for this device — which holds a coin acceptor, an LCD screen, and a control board — was entirely crafted and produced through 3D modeling and printing.This method not only guaranteed a precise fit for all electronic parts but also allowed for a customized, practical design that aligned with the unique requirements of the project.Amid technological advancements and the demand for tailored solutions, industrial 3D printing emerges as a valuable resource for engineers and electronics enthusiasts aiming for high-quality prototypes with rapid production times.Now... Let get started our project!3D Modeling and 3D PrintingThe initial phase of product development or prototyping consists of two main parts: designing the project in a 3D modeling tool and modifying the design for 3D printing in accordance with the specific rules of 3D manufacturing processes.3D Modeling Stage3D modeling is a crucial stage in the production workflow for any product. This is where structural planning takes place, the proper materials are chosen, and various simulation tests are conducted to guarantee that the parts will be manufactured both safely and with high quality.Presented below is the device, as illustrated in the 3D model.The device’s structure includes four general-purpose buttons, an LCD display for displaying information, and a coin acceptor. On the rear side, there is a power connector and an access drawer for collecting coins.As noted previously, 3D modeling for 3D printing requires thorough planning. A key consideration in this project was arranging the user interface, including the 20x4 LCD display, buttons, and coin acceptor.Carefully planning the user interface is essential in the design stage. Observe the internal structure; each component is arranged for ease of access and handling, facilitating connections between them. Below is the internal layout.The assembly analysis phase is crucial during the 3D modeling process. It allows for evaluating the assembly sequence, helping to reduce the likelihood of errors in the 3D printing stage.This approach simplifies part manufacturing, shortens the time needed for correcting modeling errors, and lowers production costs associated with modeling inaccuracies. By thoroughly conducting these steps, we successfully manufactured the structure without errors, utilizing testing and analysis tools in the 3D modeling software.3D Printing DeviceFrom the 3D modeling we 3D print each part of the project. Below we present the result of the 3D printing.The electronic enclosure structure pictured above required an average of 15 hours to complete the print. For many users, the greatest concern is making mistakes when printing large components. However, with thorough 3D modeling and careful design analysis beforehand, these risks can be significantly reduced. Below, you can see the system in action, counting coins.Anyone can have parts printed using a 3D printer, even without owning one at home.With advancements in 3D printing technology and the rise of industrial 3D printers, manufacturing and material costs have dropped significantly. Today, industrial 3D printing allows for parts that closely resemble those made with injection molding.3D printing enables the creation of enclosures that not only safeguard electronic components but also enhance the ergonomics and aesthetics of the final product, boosting its market appeal.The capability to customize every aspect of the enclosure allows products to be tailored to specific customer requirements, making them unique and distinct from competitors.Electronic Structure Resulting from the Project with 3D Printing3D printing allows for the creation of enclosures that not only protect electronic components but also enhance the ergonomics and aesthetics of the final product, thereby increasing its market appeal.The capability to customize every detail of the enclosure enables products to be designed to meet specific customer needs, making them unique and setting them apart from the competition.Below, we present the internal structure of the coin collector. As illustrated, the system comprises an electronic coin acceptor, a 20x4 LCD display, and a shield board for connecting all the cables to the Arduino UNO.As you can observe, all components have been accurately fitted into the structure as designed during the 3D modeling phase, resulting in a satisfactory outcome.There are various types of electronic fastening elements available, including glue, threaded fittings, and screw fasteners. With 3D printing, you can bring your ideas to life! Start today! Imagine transforming that concept in your mind into reality.Using the electronic connections, we developed the code below. Its purpose is to read the pulses from the coin acceptor and display the total value of the coins placed in the machine.#include <Arduino.h> #include <Wire.h> //Biblioteca de Comunicacao I2C #include <LiquidCrystal_I2C.h> //Biblioteca I2C do LCD 16x2 LiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x27,20,4); // Configurando o endereco do LCD 16x2 para 0x27 // variable use to measuer the intervals between impulses int time = 0; // Number of impulses detected int impulsCount=0; // Sum of all the coins inseted float total_amount=0; void setup() { pinMode(2, INPUT_PULLUP); Serial.begin(9600); // Interrupt connected to PIN D2 executing IncomingImpuls function when signal goes from HIGH to LOW attachInterrupt(0,incomingImpuls, FALLING); lcd.init(); //Inicializacao do LCD lcd.backlight(); lcd.clear(); lcd.setCursor(3,0); lcd.print("Coin collector"); lcd.setCursor(0,2); lcd.print("Insert a coin:"); lcd.setCursor(0,3); lcd.print("R$ "); lcd.setCursor(3,3); lcd.print(total_amount); delay(2000); } void incomingImpuls() { impulsCount=impulsCount+1; time=0; } void loop() { time=time+1; if (time>=30 and impulsCount==5){ total_amount=total_amount+0.5; lcd.setCursor(0,3); lcd.print(" "); lcd.setCursor(0,3); lcd.print("R$ "); lcd.setCursor(3,3); lcd.print(total_amount); Serial.print(" Total:"); Serial.println(total_amount); impulsCount=0; } if (time>=30 and impulsCount==4){ total_amount=total_amount+1; lcd.setCursor(0,3); lcd.print(" "); lcd.setCursor(0,3); lcd.print("R$ "); lcd.setCursor(3,3); lcd.print(total_amount); Serial.print(" Total:"); Serial.println(total_amount); impulsCount=0; } if(time>15 && (impulsCount<4||impulsCount>5)) { impulsCount=0; } delay(15); } The above code is intended to detect coins from two different types of pulses. The pulse detection system is based on the principle of interrupts in Arduino.The following condition is utilized to identify when the user has inserted a 1 real coin. Upon the insertion of a 1 real Brazilian coin, the system registers 4 pulses from the coin acceptor.As demonstrated, the system accurately detects and computes the value of each currency entered. From this point, we can extend the functionality to other applications, allowing for the creation of a product release system that activates when a user inserts a specified amount of money.Thanks to 3D printing, we were able to assemble the complete structure and develop a prototype of a product solution for a future market sales strategy.You can begin today and transform any idea you have into reality, creating innovative products that make a significant impact on your customers with a professional visual presentation made possible by industrial 3D printing.Conclusions and acknowledgementsWe would like to extend our heartfelt thanks to Justway for their outstanding support and innovation in the 3D printing community. If you’re ready to bring your ideas to life, we invite you to create an account today! When you sign up, you’ll receive a $5 coupon to use towards printing your first pieces with industrial-quality 3D printing. Don’t miss this opportunity to start your creative journey—join us and manufacture your unique designs today!

A few years back I created the original Display Cup and posted it here (https://www.instructables.com/Display-Cup/). Despite it not being all that practical, it did serve as a good proof of concept. It also represented that rarest of things among overly creative people like myself: a finished project!While I had lots of ideas of where to take it next, I didn't do much except think about it for some years. I did try to make a better cup using acrylic sheet and bending it to shape, but this didnt really work very well. It was not until another instructables user inquired about the cup. He proceeded to make one himself, which was awesome and very encouraging. We have subsequently become friends as a result!This got me fired up about revisiting this project to make a much better design. To that end, I bought something I'd wanted for a very long time, a 3d printer. Shout out to Cherry Blossom Development for funding this purchase!In this new design I had a few specific goals:1. A bigger display. The original had a 2.13" display. The new design will have a 2.9" screen, which is the biggest practical display I could find.2. A more usable cup instead of the cheap plastic novelty cup.3. A proper insulated design.Comparison to existing products..I wanted to add that in comparison to existing fancy coffee cups:Display cup has a removable, machine washable insertThe insert is borosilicate non reactive glass so no unwanted tastes are added to your drinkIts insulated but not continuously heated, which is good to preserve the taste of coffee in particular. You don't want to keep cooking your coffee which imparts a bitterness to the flavor.You can also eschew the glass insert and put a can of your favorite cold drink and it will keep it cold.You can keep other cold drinks cold in the glass insert.You can forgo the fancy electronics and just use a printed paper insert, eg a photo or a kids drawing.Supplies Insulated cup with glass insert.E-ink displayFFC ribbon cable (select 10cm and 24 pin)low profile cable extenderEsp32 microcontroller with e-ink driverLipo charging boardLipo battery3d printed cup componentsSome wire, solder, and solder pasteKapton tape or other suitable tapeSticker paper sheets Step 1: The Cup Adventures in 3d printing begin! I opted for a resin printer for it's detail accuracy and the ability to print transparent resins. The Elegoo Saturn 3 12k printer was a good compromise between price and quality and has worked well for this, especially as I am a beginner at 3d printing. My first prints were successful, but I did have a few failed after that. I guess I got lucky at first.For the cup itself, I used anycubic high clear resin, and for the base, their ABS like pro 2 resin.To get it really clear you can carefully try to cure it right off the printer while it's still wet. That's tricky to do. I also tried spraying it with gloss acrylic clear spray paint. But even just washed with IPA it's still clear enough to see the e-ink display.The final design I arrived at uses two parts for the base, an inner cup wall and an outer clear cup wall. To accommodate the ribbon extender, which is 2mm thick, I've designed the inner and outer cup walls to have enough space (including a hole on the inner cup).I also had some issues with shrinkage in the prints, largely because it's a tall print with lots of empty space. I think having the area heated might have also contributed. Keeping the resin warm though helps with the details of the prints.I designed in a bulge in the outer clear cup, which is barely noticeable when printed, but it seems to have solved the issue. Step 2: The RibbonIn order to keep the gap between the insulated cup and the outer 3D printed shell and minimal as possible, I initially tried to carefully solder the ribbon to the display. I had one success in doing this and several fails, as the displays are extremely sensitive! I then was informed of a low profile connector that I could use instead of the bulky ones you get with the screens. Thanks to the folks on The Hardware Academy!Soldering method:To do this, you'll want to "tin" the contacts on the display module FPC (Flexible Printed Circuit).The FPC is made of a high temperature plastic so it won't melt easily, so we're going to put some solder paste on the e-ink display contacts. Then, melt some solder onto the tip of your soldering iron, and quickly touch the contacts. The solder should flow easily onto the contacts, coating them with solder. Make sure not to bridge any contacts. You may need to move the iron back and forth over the FPC a few times, or even use the pointed tip to separate any bridges.The displays are extremely delicate and I've already ruined a few, so I recommend taping it down (but use tape thats not too sticky so you can get it off easily).Use some alcohol to clean the FPC of the solder paste residue, let it dry, and then put a thin layer of solder paste on top of the now tinned connections.Next, you'll want to use a small bit of wood or plastic on one side of the FPC, and use this to position the FFC (Flat Flexible Cable) directly on top. Leave some of the display FPC where you have solder exposed. Have a plastic "pusher" so you can push down on the FFC (a spudger stick is perfect here) while you solder it. Using your iron, touch the exposed solder right in front of the FFC and melt the solder. You should see it get sucked under the FFC as you press down. Move the iron across the contacts, making sure to press down on each. Do NOT touch the FFC as it will melt! Also be sure not to create any solder bridges.This is the hardest part of the whole project. You will want to connect the FFC - FPC display to the micro controller and be sure that it works before final assembly.A better, proper way to do this would be with a mask to apply solder paste, and then gently heat it with a reflow device. I don't have these, so I couldn't do it.Connector method:Use the low profile connector. Done! However this means needing an additional at least 2mm gap in the cup (which is how my 3d models are now designed).Step 3: Display AttachmentNow that you have a display attached to the ribbon, we can attach the display to the inner cup wall. There is a notch where the connector will fit in, if you've done the easy method! Place the connector in there, and then carefully arrange the display to fit into the embossed area. Use some tape (I recommend some kapton tape, but clear wrapping tape will work as well to hold down the ribbon side, then carefully wrap the display and put some tape on the other end.The ribbon cable will need to be folded at a 90 and passed through to the bottom. I added an opening in the inner cup near the bottom for this purpose, but it turned out it was not needed as you can easily pass the ribbon on the back side.Now, you will use the printed sheet to cover the edges of the display and match the color, which is not quite white. Use a blade to cut the rectangle for the display. For this, you will definitely want to use some clear packing tape, or use something like rubber cement to hold down the paper. Or for the best results use a sheet of sticker paper to print onto. I checked for fit before peeling off the backing. Step 4: ElectronicsI used a simple, small LiPo charging board from Aliexpress and the Waveshare ESP32 e-ink driver board. The battery is a small one I salvaged from a vape device. Any kind of a small LiPo works here, around 250 - 500mah.The charger board is marked with a B- and the matching hole is just above it, this is where you will attach the black and red leads from the battery. The outermost holes labeled OUT- and + are where you will attach wires for the micro. I used wires with female ends so they can connect to the micro without soldering, but this requires bending the pins sideways.Of course, you will want to program the micro before the final assembly. The github is here: https://github.com/greywire/displaycup-2. It's the simplest example that works so it should be easy to follow the code. Right now it's just loading a rotation of simple phrases.Step 5: Final AssemblyThe outer cup should fit snugly over the inner cup and display assembly. At this point you can decide which side of the cup the handle will be on, if you are left or right handed and if you want the display visible to others or yourself.Once the outer cup is slid all the way up to the top, insert the innermost insulated metal cup. It should snap into the inner cup at the top, and then you can attach the spacer ring / support. To secure this in place I simply spot glued it to the inner cup. I used Bondic which is a thick resin that is cured with a little UV led. In this way if I have to I can chip those off to disassemble.Then attach the ribbon to the micro. It should face up, just like on the connector. Finally, match up the screw holes on the base. I used small eyeglass screws here, although I probably should have chosen something a little bigger as they were difficult to line up.Step 6: Let Others Marvel at Your CupTake you cup anywhere and let people see it. :)If you would like to purchase the 3d printed parts and/or a complete kit please let me know. I would like to get the cups injection molded, but in small quantities I can print them out myself.Purchase the 3d prints: https://nerdprovisions.com/product/display-cup-mk2-3d-prints/

How to construct an egg cup and design it in a CAD you can see onhttps://www.nerd-corner.com/solidworks-tutorial-egg-cup-with-solidworks-revolved-boss-base-and-fillet-feature/

2024-11_Key Chain 'Padel'🎁 WHAT YOU GETA physical 3D printed product.😖 REFUNDNot satisfied? Ask for a refund!3D printable padel racket model to serve as a key chain.The model on the images was printed at a 15% scale.· Product width (x): 39mm (1.54") (15% scale)· Product length (y): 69mm (2.72") (15% scale)· Product height (z): 6mm (0.24") (15% scale)🎞 Demonstration video: https://youtu.be/GDitldcszuI⚡ Short video: Not available (yet)💡 Design tutorial: https://youtu.be/75TxLNYrUFs⚠ Usage of any models from 3DParts4U will be at your own risk!⚙ My PLA Simplify3D print settings:· 1600mm/minute (27mm/second)· hotend 185°C | bed 45°C· 200 micron | infill 50%· 3 top layers | 3 bottom layers | 2 outline perimeters· brass nozzle 0.35mm· extrusion width 0.44mm· retraction off· extrusion multiplier 1.03· coasting distance 0.30mm· wiping distance off· cooling fan 40% (from layer 2)· no support· no additions#3DParts4U #AllVisuals4U #YouTubeVideo #ContentCreator#3DPrinted #3DPrint #3DPrinting #3DPrintable #3DPrinter#STLFile #Download #3DModel #STL#KeyChain #Key #Keys #Home #Padel #KeyAccessories #Accessories

2024-10_Measuring Cup 'Pasta'🎁 WHAT YOU GETA physical 3D printed product.😖 REFUNDNot satisfied? Ask for a refund!An 80 grams pasta cup for coarse and fine pasta!· Product width (x): 88mm (2.60") (Both)· Product length (y): 66mm (2.60") (Both)· Product height (z): 118mm (4.65") (Coarse); 88mm (3.46") (Fine)🎞 Demonstration video: https://youtu.be/0yC26A7UkSg⚡ Short video: https://youtube.com/shorts/-jFMSdmLR6o💡 Design tutorial: https://youtu.be/tEmd-bNu4Qs⚠ Usage of any models from 3DParts4U will be at your own risk!⚙ My PLA Simplify3D print settings:· 3600mm/minute (60mm/second)· hotend 185°C | bed 45°C· 250 micron | infill 15%· 3 top layers | 3 bottom layers | 2 outline perimeters· brass nozzle 0.35mm· extrusion width 0.42mm· retraction off· extrusion multiplier 1.02· coasting distance 0.10mm· wiping distance off· cooling fan 40% (from layer 2)· no support· no additions#3DParts4U #AllVisuals4U #YouTubeVideo #ContentCreator#3DPrinted #3DPrint #3DPrinting #3DPrintable #3DPrinter#STLFile #Download #3DModel #STL #Lifehack #Kitchen #KitchenHack #HomeHack #PastaCup #Pasta